Camino - Portuguese Coastal Way 2017
- Jocelyn Timmermans
- Jun 14, 2021
- 6 min read
Updated: Jun 14, 2021
September 13 - 22: This pilgrim's route starts on the outskirts of Porto and ends in Santiago. Teresa needed to condense the 12 day trip to 10 days which meant three 30 km days, mostly on cobblestones and concrete roads. Wendy & I agreed ahead of time that we were not going to push ourselves, especially after my having planter fasciitis 2 years prior. In the end, we still ended up walking 230 km in 12 days, including the sightseeing in Porto and on the route.
We spent our first day sightseeing in Porto. Did an inner city tour in the morning and a food tour in the afternoon.
pic 1) It was very typical to see tiles on the exterior of the houses.
This used to be a monastery, now transformed into a train station.
The bishop of the town had died so there was a funeral taking place here.
The food tour was delightful and the port & wine were sooo good. We ended up eating alot of white bread, fish and potatoes but not many fruits or vegetables.
pic 1) 217 km to go... pic 2) The Harry Potter library.
Sept. 13 - Trekking day 1: Matosinhos to Vila Do Conde -- 23 km / Fitbit: 31500 steps / 2740 calories / 37 stories
All fresh and eager to start our journey... A bus had dropped us off at the Mercado stop.
pic 2) A pirate statue by a small bar Rumacoeano at Vila cha.
I asked this fine gentleman if I could take his picture (no I can't speak Spanish). The seniors were dressed so nice.
Sept 14 - Trekking day 2: Vila Do Conde to Esposende -- 25 km / 34480 steps / 2789 calories / 53 stories
The first 2.5 days were along the Atlantic Coast on a lot of boardwalks with sand dunes to our left.
Life sized statues.
Harvesting sea weed for fertilizer in the fields.
At first when we approached a group of men I thought, "Oh no! They're having a fight!" But next thing I see is one of them clapping the other on the back and then they're all roaring in laughter. I soon discovered this is typical behaviour. They over-talk eachother and then up the volume of their voices in an effort to be heard.
Sept. 15 - Trekking day 3: Esposende to Viana do Castelo -- 34 km / 35662 steps / 3925 calories / 171
By the end of this day we were in Spain.
In Portugal many people along the Way would greet us with "Bom Camino" which means: have a good Camino. In Spain it was "Beun Camino".
In Portugal we got breakfast with our hotels/hostels and took enough along for lunch. But in Spain we had to pay and the restaurants didn't open for breakfast till late morning. So usually all we had for breakfast was white break and orange juice. Then they'd have fiesta and lunch is served 2:00 - 4:00pm. Dinner wasn't served till 8:00 - 10:00pm!
This day we ended up missing a turning point to catch a foot ferry. This costed us an extra 7 km on another Camino Way. When Wendy discovered we were off course, she called a taxi. Our feet were toast.
The most meaningful moment on the Way was when we were having lunch with Jerry at this church (another check point). We'd gotten to know him a bit at our hostel the night before. Li asked him why he was doing the Camino for the third time. He explained that he's a kidney recipient and how 17 years ago his brother died of brain cancer and gave him his kidney. The first time he did the Camino was with his brother. As he was speaking I pulled out the 8x10" photo I's taken along of my son, Derrick. I told him how 7 people were alive today because he donated his organs. It seems Jerry knew what I was going to say before I said it. We had an intense moment as we hugged and cried together. When we parted we agreed that I'd pray for Jimmy and he for Derrick as we walked on to Santiago.
The temple of the Holy Heart of Jesus. The temple was opened for worship August 1926. It's built on the west spur of St. Lucia Mountain, where it dominates and "blesses" the city.
Sept 16 - trekking day 4: Viana do Castelo to A Guarda - Spain: 21 km / 28817 steps / 2950 calories / 48 stories / 100% concrete
After such a long day the day before, Wendy & I gave ourselves the luxury of sleeping in. This morning we went sightseeing. We viewed the Museum of Traditional Clothes which displays the ethnographic wealth of the traidional clothes of Viana.
I love getting off of the beaten path -- literally. In the morning we attended a Folks Festival. We were one of the few foreigners there. The people were so friendly. If you asked directions, they'd go out of their way to show you.
The train station.
Sept. 17 - Trekking day 5: A Guarda to Baiona: 17 km / 23750 steps / 2632 calories / 153 steps
This was our second day that involved some sightseeing.
It felt good to climb on dirt again like we do back in Canada. These are the Celtic Ruins (500BC). This is one of the most famous Castros of the northern region.
A eucalyptus forest.
We spent the night in a convent. Even though Wendy & I are a far cry from being nuns.
The view from our hotel room.
A 1337 fortress in Baiona.
Sept. 18 - Trekking day 6: Baiona to 7 km past Redondela 14 km / 19842 steps / 2200 calories / 69 stories
We toured the Carabela La Pinta ship (Christopher Columbus ship) which is a replica of the battle exploring ship In 1493 they arrived in Baiona with news of the discovery of America.
The temple Votivo Panxon 1930 in Nitran
Del Castro Park in Vigo
Plaza de Compostela
Oyster beds in the Atlantic Ocean.
Sept. 19 - Trekking day 7: Redondela to Pontevedra: 27 km / 37500 steps / 3000 calories / 167 stories
This day the trail met up with another eastern Camino route. Immediately there were more pilgrims.
Most of the forests consisted of eucalyptus and pine trees.
The Portuguese and Spanish residents along the Way were very respectful and encouraging to us pilgrims. Often you'd see bottles of water by the road infront of their homes. This older couple gave us some of their grapes.
Sept. 20 - Trekking day 8: Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis: 14 km / 38870 steps / 2912 calories / 100 stories
Wendy hanging out with the gang.
The pilgrims' chapel.
Santuario de la Peregrina in the city of Pontevedra started being built in 1778.
This painting of Jesus was almost life sized.
Before dinner we soaked our sore feet in this thermal pool.
Ask the locals and they'll tell you where to go have dinner. This quaint restaurant was full of pilgrims.
Sept. 21 - Trekking day 9: Caldas de Reis to Picarana: 28 km / 38870 steps / 2912 calories / 100 stories
More grape vines. Many times they lined the low stone walls on the perimeter of the properties.
This was the only day it rained.
An ancient oak forest.
I'd never seen grave sites with cubicles before.
Sycamore trees were often planted in the towns.
Sept. 21 - Trekking day 10: Picarana to Santiago: 14 km / 31317 steps / 2314 calories / 130 stories
Our last day was a short walk and an exciting one. We could see the high steeples of Santiago Cathedral from far off.
Made it!!!
No, we weren't the most faithful pilgrims and didn't get all our stamps. But we had a great experience, delving into the culture of the countries (and we saved our feet).
The construction of the Santiago Cathedral began in 1075.
The tomb of Saint James (one of the apolstlese of Jesus) in the back. We were able to walk behind it (pic 2).
The square and buildings opposite from the cathedral.
Our last day we spent sightseeing with all 4 of us. I enjoyed watching the people barter for goods at the market.
A roof top tour of the cathedral.
I took this photo of my son Derrick with me as I walked the pilgrims' route. He passed away in a car accident 9 years & 7 months earlier at the age of 25. I dedicated this trip to him. Forever in my heart; until we meet again.
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