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Writer's pictureJocelyn Timmermans

Giant Trees on Vancouver Island

May 16-19, 2024

Half a year earlier, we went in search of the Cheewhat Giant, in a very remote area near the west coast of Vancouver Island. We were not successful. More determined than ever, we set out once again and this time not only found the Cheewhat Giant, but also the Castle Giant and the Big Lone Doug! I'm astounded at how close we live to these biggest trees in Canada that are hidden away in such remote areas on the island. The locals wish to keep it so.


Day 1: The Cheewhat Giant + Grove

Stats: 3.1 km / 176m gain / 1 1/2 hour MT

The Cheewhat Giant is the largest Western Red Cedar in Canada. It was discovered in 1988, in the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve. It's diameter is 19.5' at breast height and is 194' tall. It's estimated to be about 2500 years old.

Last November we did not see this colorful tree along the side of Rosander FSR. It must've been painted within the past 5 months. My downloaded AllTrails GPS led us straight to it.

The trail is in good condition. Also we made better time with driving because the roads had been recently graded.



The Cheewhat Giant should not get all the glory. These mega trees leading to it deserve some recognition too.






At the end of the trail is the Cheewhat Giant.




The other side of the Cheewhat.

Heading back.



Just a bit farther down Rosander FSR is Carmanah Walbran Provincial Park. We'd been there 5 months prior so we did not return to it this time. Instead we backtracked, turning right onto Carmanah Main which becomes Haddon Main and then Walbran Main. At the McClure junction we turned right, staying on Walbran Main and drove to the campsite by the Castle Grove trailhead.

 

Day 2: Attempt at the Castle Giant + Grove in Nuu-Cha-Nulth Territory

Stats: 3 km / 176m gain

After dinner we headed out on the Castle Giant trail but only got as far as the winter-crossing where the remains of a cable lay. When we back-tracked to the summer crossing, we realized it wasn't going to happen this day. We were tired and the river looked too daunting.


Orange Peel Fungus

Lower Falls trail.


Case had a cold and was constantly sneezing and coughing. I thought, "How am I ever going to get any sleep with him right beside me in the pup tent?" When we got there, he looking inside the big canvas tent and found a tarp + a woodstove. He set up his bed in there and we both sleep very well.


 

Day 3: Castle Giant + Grove

7.9 km /470m gain / 3.5 hours MT (Case-pace)

We parked on the other side of this bridge that crossed over the Walbran River, right by where we had camped.

Columbine

The Emerald Loop Trail was just across from the Castle Giant trailhead and was only a 10-minute walk.






There were so many board-walks on these trails in the middle of nowhere.


This time I took my water-sandles along and my hiking poles for the river-crossing.

In this unprotected area on Vancouver Ilsand, one of the highest concentrations of giant red cedars exists.


We cautiously made our way through West Walbran Creek at the signed summer crossing.


A rope that was not very useful. It worked better to stay higher on the rocks instead of leaning over and dropping down to grab a loose rope while trying to maintain balance in a strong current.



The Castle Giant is a Western Red Cedar that is 16' in diameter.



The Giant is at the beginning of a loop. We had to get farther away from it to be able to see it's top. Hence the name Castle, because of the forked or castle-like appearance of the top that is typical of old-growth trees.

We did the loop clockwise, starting on the Wittness trail. This ascent was quite steep.

Castle Grove.



At the end and highest point of the loop was the Wittness tree.

We descended on the Lookout trail. Both trails were not as distinct and the Witness trail had roped sections on the very steeps parts.


We forgot the bear-spray so I did alot of singing.



The grey line was our route.

This bridge was very high above the canyon. The railings looked too low.

Then we drove east back to Cowichan Lake and then southwest on a paved road to Port Renfrew. But all accomodations were booked solid, thanks to the long weekend and sunny weather. So after a delicious dinner at the local pub we drove south on the West Coast Road for almost an hour, to Shirley, which is just north of Sooke and stayed at the Ocean Wilderness Inn for two nights.


 

Day 4: Big Lonely Doug

In 2011 Dennis Cronin was walking through one of the last of the few remaining stands of old-growth forest on Vancouver Island and flagging the trees for clear-cutting. But when he came to Big Lonely Doug, although it could provide the best timber for building five 2000 square foot houses and bring in tens of thousands of dollars, he decided to preserve this tree. It is the second largest fir tree in Canada and is estimated to be about 1000 years old.

We drove northeast on the Gordon River FSR which was in pretty rough shape, being riddled with potholes and then turned right onto Edinburgh Rd. From there you need a high-clearance 4x4 to get to this trailhead. Or you could park a bit farther down the road.

It's not even a 10-minutes walk down to the Big Lone Doug.

39' in diameter & 216' tall!

Then we drove a bit farther up the road to Edin Grove.



The trail ended at this point. It took less than half an hour to walk.

We planned to check out Avatar Grove yet but large signs said it was unsafe and closed to the public. I was there many years ago. North America's gnarliest trees resides there.

Having successfully completed our giant tree search, we drove back along the coast where the Juan de Fuca trail huts the coastline.

The Sheringham Point lighthouse was built in 1912. The Strait of Juan de Fuca was known as the "Graveyard of the Pacific". In 1906 twelve new lighthouses were ordered to be built along this stretch.

Salmon Berry Cowparsnip

We had a lovely dinner at the Oceanfront Restaurant a bit north of Florence Bay. I would highly recommend this place. They had the best tuna salad I've ever tasted and Case's beef tartar was also superb, not to mention the main course of Pacific salmon. The setting was also lovely, overlooking the ocean in the evening hours.


In the afternoon vehicles were lined up along the West Coast Road because the parking lots by Florence Bay were full. Not so in the evening.

It's amazing how these trees continue to live, sometimes clinging to some soil by just the tips of a few roots.

Erosion by the ocean.



A Sitka Spruce.








 

Day 4:

A continental breakfast was included. The location of the Ocean Wilderness Inn was higher above the ocean but provided a beautiful view of it.


Case & I were very impressed with the landscape.

On our way to Swartz Bay ferry terminal, we branched off of the highway to check out Sooke Pothole Regional Park.

We parked at the second parking lot and walked along the trail to the left, checking out this viewpoint along the way.

Camash


The potholes.


Plectritis

The pebble beach just a bit past the parking lot.

There was so much broom everyewhere, growing mostly along the roadsides.

 

The Malahat Skywalk is a 40m high tower that offers expansive views of the Gulf Islands and surrounding Pacific ocean.