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Writer's pictureJocelyn Timmermans

The Dolomites - Alta Via 1

August 24 - Sept. 4, 2024 -- Italy

We hiked a total of 110.47 km & 5553m elevation gain.

The Dolomites are known as the "Pale Mountains". The limestone rock varies in hues, from pale grey to soft orange and bright white that turns to a pastel pink at sunrise & sunset. We did the 7-day trek from north to south. In the northern sections German is predominantly spoken whereas in the southern sections Italian is. We found that the quality of the food and refuges decreased somewhat, the further south that we went. Overall, in comparison to Tour Mont Blanc we found that accomodations were better on the AV1. And although the AV1 is shorter than the TMB, there are some sections where the terrain is more challenging.

We were fortunate with the weather, it being mostly sunny with just a few sprinkles. Temperatures were in the mid 20s. I took 2.5 litres of water each day since we were still sweating. All the rifugios we stayed at were accessible by road, albiet some of them being rather rough towards the south end. So many of the trails were doable as day trips. Water & camera gear being the heaviest items, my backpack weighed 20-25 lbs.


 


We flew from Vancouver to Paris, to Amsterdam and then finally to Venice.

I was dreading the long flight, because sitting that long is hard for my back. Two days before departure, I was checking in and saw that for $670.00 we could upgrade to business class. To me it was worth every penny. With the push of a button, I could lie down and take the pressure off of my spine.

Landing in Venice.

We then took the bus to Bolzano where we spent a day exploring the city and getting over our jet lag.



The Maria Himmelfarht cathedral was consecrated in 1180.








Otzi, the Iceman was found in the Alps in 1991. This is a replica of what he may have looked like. His body lay in the ice for 5300 years. It was in a room next door that you can view through a small window.

Otzi died near a glacier at the beginning of a period of a colder climate.Water was drawn out of his body in the dry atmosphere below the thickening layer of aerated snow. Only after many years was he encased in ice. Thanks to this freeze-drying process, Otzi was preserved as a wet mummy.

Walther Plazza.



It felt good to do a short steep climb to the tiny Santa Maria Maddalena Chapel.


The Santa Maddalena Church dates back to 1295.



The frescoes date back to 1370-1380.


Chinese Trumpet Creeper

Runkelstein Castle (1237 construction started) houses Europes's largest visitable collection of secular medieval frescos. We were dissappointed when we arrived and the doors were locked. The taxi had dropped us off higher up on the hill. It was Monday and the museums were closed. As were were standing there, a maintenance truck parked infront of the door and let us into the courtyard.


Then when we were about to exit, a man that worked in the museum, let us in!











Aug. 26: We met up with Judith & Thea at Casa Alpina Dobbiaco, northwest of the nothern end of the AV1 route.


 

Aug. 27 - Day 1: Lago di Braies to Rifugio Pederu

Stats: 14.1 km / 920m gain / 2394m high / 4:50 hours MT

Our more humble hotel was right beside this building in Dobbiaco.

The first steps of our journey were on our way to the bus station.

From north to south. When I type LB, it means "looking back".

The trail started to the right of this building.

Me, Case, Judith & Thea. This is our third trekking trip together. In 2022 we did the GR20 in Corsica and last year in 2023 we did the TMB. Judith is Case's dutch sister and Thea is the mother of our son-in-law and a neighbor to Cases's other dutch sister, Janet in the Netherlands.



Lago di Braies.

We hiked up the pass to the left.







At the south end of the lake we began to climb to Sora al Forn-Scharte.




Looking back at Lago di Braies.


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At Sora al Forn-Scharte Pass (2389m).



Blue Mallow Fairies-thimbles

Right below the pass is the historic Rifugio Biella. A good time for a pit-stop and cold drink.


Edelweiss Pink Cinquefoil


Pyrenean Scabious Tall Yarrow

On the Sennes plateau.

Chiltern Gentian Stemlass Carline Thistle




A few bolts of lightening and claps of thunder left us on edge and feeling rather vulnerable. Thankfully the storm passed quickly.

Rifugio Sennes. A lot of cyclers made this a destination for the day.

The trail angled to the right here (west).

View to our left (south)


This stretch was very steep and the loose gravel made it difficult to keep a foothold.

Arriving at our first refugio.

Rifugio Pederu (1548m).

Monkshood A nifty boot mount that blew warm air into each boot.


 

August 28, Day 2: Rifugio Pederu to Rifugio Scotoni

Stats: 16.16 km / 1115m gain / 2483m high / 6 hours MT

We went to bed no later than 10:00pm which is late for hikers. I was worried that the three dutch boys we shared the room with, would keep us up at night. But it ended up being the other way around.

Our route took us through the valley.



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LB- passing Utia Pices Fanes.




A farm to our right.

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lunch

The beautiful Cortina d'Ampezzo Valley.


There were many people walking here with dogs, doing day trips.

We turned left just past this pasture for the final climb to the pass.


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to our left


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video

At the Forcella Del Lago pass (2483m).

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And down we went. In the "Trekking the Dolomites AV1" book, it states that this is one of the hardest sections of the Alta Via 1. I disagree. The following day proved to be the most dangerous. Although this trail was very steep, it was in good condition.

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Lago di Lagazoui. To the left of the rounded summit in the background is Rifugio Lagazuoi, where most trekkers reside for the night. It's another 500m climb from the lake to the rifugio, making for a very long challenging day. I was glad we were going down from the lake and not up.


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To our right.

Our refugio Scotoni was located in the pastures at the bottom of this steep drop .


A sign boasted of the highest mineral content in all of Europe in this water.