The Dolomites - Alta Via 1

Jocelyn Timmermans
Oct 27, 2024
9 min read

August 24 - Sept. 4, 2024 -- Italy

We hiked a total of 110.47 km & 5553m elevation gain.

The Dolomites are known as the "Pale Mountains". The limestone rock varies in hues, from pale grey to soft orange and bright white that turns to a pastel pink at sunrise & sunset. We did the 7-day trek from north to south. In the northern sections German is predominantly spoken whereas in the southern sections Italian is. We found that the quality of the food and refuges decreased somewhat, the further south that we went. Overall, in comparison to Tour Mont Blanc we found that accomodations were better on the AV1. And although the AV1 is shorter than the TMB, there are some sections where the terrain is more challenging.

We were fortunate with the weather, it being mostly sunny with just a few sprinkles. Temperatures were in the mid 20s. I took 2.5 litres of water each day since we were still sweating. All the rifugios we stayed at were accessible by road, albiet some of them being rather rough towards the south end. So many of the trails were doable as day trips. Water & camera gear being the heaviest items, my backpack weighed 20-25 lbs.

We flew from Vancouver to Paris, to Amsterdam and then finally to Venice.

I was dreading the long flight, because sitting that long is hard for my back. Two days before departure, I was checking in and saw that for $670.00 we could upgrade to business class. To me it was worth every penny. With the push of a button, I could lie down and take the pressure off of my spine.

Landing in Venice.

We then took the bus to Bolzano where we spent a day exploring the city and getting over our jet lag.

The Maria Himmelfarht cathedral was consecrated in 1180.

Otzi, the Iceman was found in the Alps in 1991. This is a replica of what he may have looked like. His body lay in the ice for 5300 years. It was in a room next door that you can view through a small window.

Otzi died near a glacier at the beginning of a period of a colder climate.Water was drawn out of his body in the dry atmosphere below the thickening layer of aerated snow. Only after many years was he encased in ice. Thanks to this freeze-drying process, Otzi was preserved as a wet mummy.

Walther Plazza.

It felt good to do a short steep climb to the tiny Santa Maria Maddalena Chapel.

The Santa Maddalena Church dates back to 1295.

The frescoes date back to 1370-1380.

Chinese Trumpet Creeper

Runkelstein Castle (1237 construction started) houses Europes's largest visitable collection of secular medieval frescos. We were dissappointed when we arrived and the doors were locked. The taxi had dropped us off higher up on the hill. It was Monday and the museums were closed. As were were standing there, a maintenance truck parked infront of the door and let us into the courtyard.

Then when we were about to exit, a man that worked in the museum, let us in!

Aug. 26: We met up with Judith & Thea at Casa Alpina Dobbiaco, northwest of the nothern end of the AV1 route.

Aug. 27 - Day 1: Lago di Braies to Rifugio Pederu

Stats: 14.1 km / 920m gain / 2394m high / 4:50 hours MT

Our more humble hotel was right beside this building in Dobbiaco.

The first steps of our journey were on our way to the bus station.

From north to south. When I type LB, it means "looking back".

The trail started to the right of this building.

Me, Case, Judith & Thea. This is our third trekking trip together. In 2022 we did the GR20 in Corsica and last year in 2023 we did the TMB. Judith is Case's dutch sister and Thea is the mother of our son-in-law and a neighbor to Cases's other dutch sister, Janet in the Netherlands.

Lago di Braies.

We hiked up the pass to the left.

At the south end of the lake we began to climb to Sora al Forn-Scharte.

Looking back at Lago di Braies.

At Sora al Forn-Scharte Pass (2389m).

Blue Mallow Fairies-thimbles

Right below the pass is the historic Rifugio Biella. A good time for a pit-stop and cold drink.

Edelweiss Pink Cinquefoil

Pyrenean Scabious Tall Yarrow

On the Sennes plateau.

Chiltern Gentian Stemlass Carline Thistle

A few bolts of lightening and claps of thunder left us on edge and feeling rather vulnerable. Thankfully the storm passed quickly.

Rifugio Sennes. A lot of cyclers made this a destination for the day.

The trail angled to the right here (west).

View to our left (south)

This stretch was very steep and the loose gravel made it difficult to keep a foothold.

Arriving at our first refugio.

Rifugio Pederu (1548m).

Monkshood A nifty boot mount that blew warm air into each boot.

August 28, Day 2: Rifugio Pederu to Rifugio Scotoni

Stats: 16.16 km / 1115m gain / 2483m high / 6 hours MT

We went to bed no later than 10:00pm which is late for hikers. I was worried that the three dutch boys we shared the room with, would keep us up at night. But it ended up being the other way around.

Our route took us through the valley.

LB- passing Utia Pices Fanes.

A farm to our right.

lunch

The beautiful Cortina d'Ampezzo Valley.

There were many people walking here with dogs, doing day trips.

We turned left just past this pasture for the final climb to the pass.

to our left

video

At the Forcella Del Lago pass (2483m).

And down we went. In the "Trekking the Dolomites AV1" book, it states that this is one of the hardest sections of the Alta Via 1. I disagree. The following day proved to be the most dangerous. Although this trail was very steep, it was in good condition.

Lago di Lagazoui. To the left of the rounded summit in the background is Rifugio Lagazuoi, where most trekkers reside for the night. It's another 500m climb from the lake to the rifugio, making for a very long challenging day. I was glad we were going down from the lake and not up.

To our right.

Our refugio Scotoni was located in the pastures at the bottom of this steep drop .

A sign boasted of the highest mineral content in all of Europe in this water.

Looking up at the mountains we'd just come down from.

It was Happy Hour and busy, many hikers having done day trips. But it really quieted down a few hours later. Scotoni Rifgio (2040m).

Kitty and lama were very familiar with one another. She was out to tease lama.

It worked. When kitty pounced, lama was surprised and then annoyed. We shared our room with two other hikers.

August 29, Day 3: Rifugio Scotoni to Rifugio Scoiattoli

Stats: 15.65 km / 902m gain / 2334m high / 6:15 hours MT

Having descended the day before through the cliffs to the left, we now ascended round the pinnacle to the right.

View to our right.

We stayed left at this junction.

Once round the pinnacle, the trail hooked up with the trail that leads to Rifugio Lagazoui. This day we saw many reminders of WW1 in the way of ruins, bunkers, tunnels and an open air museum at our rifugio.

Cinque Torri and Rifugio Scoiattoli in the center of this photo. Judith and I did a long narrow horseshoe along the base of the massive to the left (not visible in this pic).

Rifugio Lagazoui (2752m) is the highest rifugio on the AV1. Later at the Rifugio, we were wondering why Case & Thea weren't back yet, as they had taken a much shorter route. But they had climbed up to this rifugio because Case wanted a cup of coffee. Thea said it was very exposed in a few sections and very steep.

Entering the Travenanzes Valley.

Hairy Hawkbit

High up in the cliffs to the right, were windows in the rock.

Notice the windows at the base of the cliff.

At the 3-way junction Jutdith and I went left whereas Case & Thea went straight and down on the much shorter route.

Cinque Torri in center of photo.

The AV1 route traverses below il Castelletto.

This section was very dangerous. Several times we had to make big steps across a gully and hope that our footing would hold in the loose scree on the opposite side. A fall would've meant either death or a serious injury. I'm not sure why this route was on the AV1 route.

A rock climber's paradise.

Soon after this point we began the descent.

An ant hill. After we crossed the highway, we followed alongside a creek for about half an hour.

Shingled Hedgehog Amanita

Just past the lake we took the gondola up to Rifugio Scoiattoli.

Cinque Torri was very close to our rifugio.

A room for four.

Looking at the mountain Judith and I had hiked along the base of.

The WW1 Open Air museum was just a hop & a skip from the refuge. May 23, 1915 Italy declared war on Austria, in the hopes of liberating Trento & Trieste.

August 30, Day 4: Rifugio Scoiattoli to Rifugio Passo Staulanza

Stats: 19.05 km / 737m gain / 1783m high / 7:20 hours MT

Sunrise.

This Rifugio Scoiattoli (2255m) was my favorite. The food here was the best. Their 4-course meal was an unexpected luxury.

Starting out for the day.

A WW1 relic.

This first section was very slippery, muddy and steep.

Much caution was needed here.

View to our right.

The trail from the alternate via ferrata route joins up here, by Giau Pass (2236m).

At the resuarant by Giau pass we stopped for a lemonade.

To our right.

Woodland Sage

The trail turned right, below the towering cliffs.

All cattle had huge bells hanging off of their necks.

Almost at Forcella Giau Pass.

I bopped this cantankerous mule on the nose when he became quite aggressive, nudging Judith because of the food in her backpack.

Sheep.

Alpine Thrift

At Forcella Ambrizzola pass.

Selfheal

Patrick & Nathali were constantly passing us and then we passed them throughout the trek. They're the only people that stayed in the same overnight rifugeos as us all six nights.

Happy to rest our weary feet at Rifugio Staulanza (1766m).

There were 5 beds in this small room. So we packed up the fifth one and then Judith put up her faithful clothes-line. When we showered, we'd also wash our clothes because we had only two outfits. One for hiking in and one for not hiking in.

Trying to speed up the drying process with a hair dryer.

When a storm hit we immidiately were concerned about Thea & Case. They were still out on the trail and it was really pouring! Mt. Pelmo is also known as the "Throne of the Gods".

I've never seen a stair was like this before. The wall was slightly tilted and the steps were only wide enough for one foot. Without a hand rail, you really needed to focus.

August 31, Day 5: Rifugio Passo Staulanza to Rifugio Vazzoler

Stats: 19.38 km / 1069m gain / 1891m high / 7:25 hours MT

On this longest day, both me and Nathalie were not feeling very good, having flu-like symptoms. It was probably someting we ate since it lasted only one day.

Refugio Coldai (2132m) is very close to the pass.

Lago Coldai from the pass.

Two male goats at play.

Mt. Civetta.

It was a 30-minute detour & grunt to Rifugio Tissi (2250m). Just 5-minutes beyond it, at the edge of a cliff is a 10' tall metal cross & flag and far-reaching views.

Lago Coldai

Rofigio Vazzoler ((1714m) was more rustic. But we still managed to get a room for four.

Some of the palest limestone in the whole range is located by this rifugio.

September 1, Day 6: Rifugio Vazzoler to Rifugio Carestiato

After five long days of hiking, it was nice to have a shorter day. We were headed to the distant low point at the base of the cliffs.

LB at the pass we'd just come through.

The trail veered off to the left here, bringing us through a fence.

Arrived at Rifugio Carestiato (1834m), for our final night on the trek.

September 2, Day 7: Rifugio Carestiato to Agordo

Sunrise.

Our destination was the town of Agordo in the valley.

The two sisters, Heather & Deb, Patrick & Nathalie & us. Unfortunately we did not do the final and hardest day on the Alta Via 1 because Case had to meet friends in Holland for a cycle trip. So we said our farwells here.

We parted ways with Thea & Case, thinking to do a bit more of the AV1 before taking a more gradual way down. Having talked to the guy working at our rifugio and shown him our map, he pointed out which trail to take. He was wrong.