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Writer's pictureJocelyn Timmermans

San Juan Island hikes

I was waiting for the US borders to open and then I could finish all the hikes in the "105 Hikes in and around Southwestern BC" book. It was a bittersweet accomplishment, because as I knocked the last 5 hikes off, we were helpless to do anything other than pray about the catastrope unfolding at home.

As we crossed the border for the first time since February 2019, we wittnessed the Nooksack River overflowing its banks, close to Lynden WA. But we weren't too concerned. It wouldn't be the first time Sumas Praire fields were slightly flooded. Well it ended up being a very anxious week. Nevertheless, we were still able to enjoy these lovely shoulder-season hikes, each one offering its own special features.

I wondered why the author of the book would include these islands in Washington US, in his book. But I now know they're situated between the south end of Vancouver Island and BC. So why does the straight Canada/US border make a small bend there to include these small islands in the USA? The reason they're not Canadian is really rather absurd: In 1859 the US & UK came to the brink of war over the shooting of an HBC pig on San Juan Island. Following the pig incident, the two empires carried out a joint military occupation of the island for 12 years, with camps on opposite ends. This lasted until their Salish Sea boundary dispute was settled in favour of the USA.


Hike #1: Nov. 16 - Mt. Constitution - Orcas Island - Moran State Park

Stats: 17.5 km / 915m gain / 734m high / 5:25 hours MT

This was the longest and highest of the 5 hikes, having a historic tower at its summit and looping round Mountain Lake, the last half of the loop being on a thin arm of land between the lake and ocean.

New creeks and cracks in the earth showed evidence of the heavy rainfall.

The gates opened at 8:00am. We then drove to the picnic shelter where there was ample parking.

The west side of the lake was closed due to flooding. But we didn't need to go there. The route started to the left of this shelter at the Little Summit trailhead.

A submerged landing.





Fresh new trenches were carved out by the overload of water.



A right turn close to Summit Lake got us onto the Mt. Constitution trail. Mountain Lake and the Salish Sea behind it.



This open slope was covered with Manzanita shrubs.

Mountain Lake. There's the thin arm of land we hiked on.

This tower was built in 1936 of 216 yards (1000 tons) of native sandstone, 200 yards of sand & gravel, 260 barrels of cement & 2 tons of steel. The tower is 53' tall and the walls are 2 1/2' thick. It stands on the highest point of the San Juan Islands.

The Salish Sea & the mainland -- east

Cypress Island -- southeast.

We dropped down almost 300m to Twin Lakes which is the halfway point in the loop.



Along the right side of the second lake I had to take my boots off and walk through very cold water that had covered the trail. Then we turned right onto the the Mt. Pickett Trail.


Mt. Pickett is just a rounded treed hump with no far-reaching views.






I got within 10' of this deer. We were the only ones on this part of the trail. Most hikers turn back at Mt. Constitution.



At the south end of the lake we turned right onto the Dam trail.




Almost back at the van. Thankful to have completed this hike which required only a small section of boots-off due to flooding.

High waters in Cascade Lake on the drive from Mountain Lake.

We had dinner at this quaint town in the middle of the horseshoe shaped island, at Madrona Bar & Grill. It was delicious!


 

Hike #2: Nov. 17 - Turtlehead Mt. - Orcas Island

While hike #1 was on the east side of Orcas Island, this one was on the west. It featured pretty

lookouts to the north & west.

We started out on the North trail which is on an FSR. They were already busy with a Bobcat, cleaning up the gorges in the ground from the heavy rainfall just days before.

North Valley lookout.

A thin film of frost on the bench.


Most of this short hike was on an FSR.




Waldron lookout.

At a junction just past Waldron lookout, we stayed right on the Turtlehead trail.





Turtlehead lookout - West Sound & Deer Harbor -- south. Shaw Island on the horizon.




Caught the 4:00 ferry to San Juan Island.


 

Hike #3: Nov. 18 - Cattle Point - San Juan Island

Stats: 9 km / 243m gain / 88m high point / 2 1/2 hours MT

This hike was a refreshing easy walk in the ocean breeze to a lighthouse at the end of a promontory.

Friday Harbour where the ferry docks on San Juan Island, houses a much larger community than Orcas Island does.

We did this loop counter-clockwise.

We started out on the Mt. Finlayson trail.


Looking back at the Salish Sea.

The Strait of Juan de Fuca and Vancouver Island to our right.

Wind shaped trees.


Looking south with the North Cascade mountains on the horizon.



Two eagles were sitting atop the lighthouse.


The mate left and perched on a nearby tree, keeping a close eye on us.

The lighthouse at Cattle Point.

In the other half of the loop the Lagoon trail followed alongside Griffin Bay. The Mt. Finlayson forest is made up mostly of Douglas-fir and Shore Pine.

A short side trail led to Third Lagoon.


And another short side trail led to Jakles Lagoon.


Bull Kelp line the shore. Not sure what that fishing boat was throwing out but the seagulls sure liked it. Caught the 2:00pm ferry to Anacortes.


 

Nov. 19 - Mt. Erie - Anacortes

Stats: 9.6 km / 551m gain / 386m high point / 3 1/2 hours MT

This hike involved a maze of numbered trails, keeping my eyes constantly flitting from my GPS & book page back to the trail. You can also drive to Mt. Erie which is in the Anacortes Community forest.



Branching off to do an out and back trail to the summit.

Orange Jelly fungi.

Views towards Skagit Bay from the summit.

southwest








This last short stretch of trail led us through old growth forest.

No more ferries to catch so we drove towards Deception Pass, secured our first campsite (boon-docked the other nights) and had enough time to go check out Ft. Casey State Park.





The Coast Artillery was among the most technologically advanced of the army's specialties from 1890 - 1915. This gun is Battery Kingsbury.

Battery Moore with Kingsbury & Worth were all part of the front line defense and had a range of 8 miles. Moore was completed in 1902. During Ft. Casey's active period from the 1900s to mid 1940s, the guns never fired at an enemy target.

The network of rooms under Battery Worth's guns were part of a complex support system for loading & firing artillery. It took a team of 100 soldiers and officers to fire both of Battery Worth's 10 inch guns. The guns fired two 617 lb. projectiles that required two 81lb. bags of powder each. These projectiles could fire at 1544 miles per hour, penetrating 4" thick steel in only 30 seconds. The gun crew could reload in less than 1 minute!



Rapid changes in warships and airplanes made fixed artillery obsolete as a front line defense by 1920.



 

Nov. 20 - Hoypus Hill - Deception Pass

Stats: 11.5 km / 270m gain / 134m high point / 3:10 hours MT

This loop hike on the Widbey Island side of Deception Pass, had the most old-growth trees.


First we walked down Cornet Bay Rd. to Hoypus Point. We could see glimpses of the famous and busy Deception Pass bridge across Cornet Bay. We backtracked a bit from the point and then cut across a faint trail to the East Hoypus Point trail. This FSR curved round and through gorgeous old-growth giant Douglas firs, maples and cedars.












This is the first time I've seen the Orange Peel fungus in the forest.


Leaving the FSR we turned right onto the Marsh trail, then Julie, Fern, Alder& Fireside trails before getting back onto the Hoypus Point trail not too far from the parking lot.


Dyer's Polypore

Remains of an old car.

Deception Pass Bridge.









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